WEDGE CLAMPING (or how to live with no end vice)

Having the double row of dogs helps. I make/use wooden dogs, usually out of maple or beech.
I have several older iron dogs, but the thought of a wooden plane flying out of control towards
one of those guys, ugh, plus it's a lot easier on the olde knuckles.

I have (or make as needed) wedges, usually out of 1/2" stock, but it depends on the thickness of
what I am working with. The closer to the thickness of the stock you are, the better they work. Cut
a rectangular piece (I usually grab what's laying around but 3x6 or 4x6 (inches) will do). Just make
sure that the long sides are parallel, the ends don't matter too much. Mark a line diagonally and cut
into two triangles. I usually don't bother to plane the cuts smooth as the saw marks give it a little
better grab.

Put your piece of stock up against the left front dogs and I usually wedge on the right hand side
(if your wdeges are thinner than your stock it gives you a good clean start.) This also works well
for molding as well as surfacing. About the only thing that gives me fits and I usually rectify this
by using the holdfast to keep things tight, is when I am panel raising on the end grain. I try to butt
a piece of equal thickness on the left hand edge to minimize the tearout monster. This does make
things a little squirrelly, especially with the weight of the panel raising plane (which is english made,
untoted, but still has a fair amount of heft.)